Leather Properties & Uses
Types of Jacket Materials: How Leather, Wool, Nylon, Cotton and Down Compare
Leather, suede, wool, cotton, nylon, polyester, fleece, down and membranes compared: what each does well, its weak spots, and which suits rain or cold.
No single jacket material wins. Choose the outer shell for the weather, then the insulation for the cold. For wind and rain, synthetics and waterproof membranes lead. For warmth, down is the lightest but stops working when wet, while wool still holds air and absorbs moisture.
Leather is one option among many. It's durable and passes water vapor, but it loses insulation when soaked. This guide is part of our hub on leather properties and uses.
Jacket materials compared
| Material | What it is | Strengths | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Leather | Tanned animal hide | Strong, flexible and durable; absorbs and passes water vapor | Wet leather loses its insulation; ordinary dry cleaning can shrink it |
| Suede | Leather with a napped finish from the underside of the skin | Soft and pliable | Less durable; open pores soak up liquids and stain |
| Shearling (sheepskin) | Sheep hide tanned with the fleece on | Fleece insulates well and draws sweat away | The fleece holds 30 to 36% of its weight in moisture; the hide side needs leather care, such as drying at room temperature |
| Faux leather (PU, PVC) | Plastic coating on a fabric backing | Low maintenance | Breathes only if built porous; the surface can wear off; PU can break down by hydrolysis |
| Wool | Animal fiber | Crimped fibers hold air and keep heat in; absorbs almost a third of its weight in water | Can felt and shrink with temperature shock when wet |
| Cotton and denim | Plant fiber; denim is a sturdy cotton twill | Soft, breathable, durable | Plant fibers resist wind and water less than polyester |
| Waxed cotton | Cotton impregnated with paraffin or beeswax | Water resistant | Not very breathable, heavier than synthetics, needs re-waxing about once a year |
| Nylon | Synthetic fiber | Excellent abrasion resistance | Less absorbent than wool or cotton; can melt and stick to skin |
| Polyester | Synthetic fiber | Resists wrinkling, shrinking, wind and water | Can melt when ignited; sheds microplastics in the wash |
| Fleece | Napped polyester | Holds under 1% of its weight in water and dries in 1 to 4 hours | Not windproof; loses most of its insulation when wet |
| Down | Insulation, rated by fill power | Warm, light, packable | Insulation is virtually gone when wet; clumps and can mildew |
| Membranes (e.g. Gore-Tex) | Thin layer bonded into the shell | Blocks liquid water, lets vapor out | Needs a working water-repellent outer finish, which wear and washing reduce |
Shell, insulation and lining: what each layer does
Most jackets combine materials. The outer layer protects what's inside from wind and water. Insulation such as down, fleece or wool keeps the heat in. The lining is what touches you.
Read the label for all three. A leather jacket with a polyester lining feels different from one with cotton, because polyester resists absorbing moisture and cotton breathes. Some makers let you pick: Leather Collection's custom jacket offers no lining, cotton, polyester or a printed lining.
Soft shells are a middle ground. They block wind and shed some water, but they aren't waterproof.
How to choose: the criteria that matter
- Rain. For steady rain, a membrane shell is built for it. Waxed cotton resists water but breathes poorly. Leather and suede are a separate question: see is leather waterproof?
- Cold and wet together. Down loses almost all its warmth when wet. Fleece loses most of its insulation too, though it dries fast.
- Breathability. Leather passes water vapor through its fibers. Coated materials vary a lot; see is leather breathable?
- Wear and abrasion. Nylon has excellent abrasion resistance. Full leather is strong and durable, while suede is less so.
- Care. Polyester resists shrinking in the wash. Leather needs a leather specialist, because ordinary dry cleaning can shrink it (does leather shrink?). Waxed cotton needs re-waxing.
Picks by need
For how leather jackets do in the cold, see how warm leather jackets are.
| If you need... | Look for | Why |
|---|---|---|
| A rain jacket | Membrane shell, or waxed cotton for a classic look | Blocks liquid water |
| Warmth in dry cold | Down or shearling | Warm and light; fleece-side insulation |
| Warmth that may get damp | Wool, or a shell over synthetic fleece | Wool absorbs moisture; fleece dries fast |
| An everyday jacket that lasts | Leather or denim | Durable materials |
| Easy care at a low price | Polyester | Resists wrinkles and shrinking |
If you choose leather
Leather choice comes down to the hide. Leather Collection describes cowhide as firmer, suiting biker and cafe racer cuts, while sheepskin and lambskin feel softer and drape more. Our guides to types of leather used for jackets and the best leather for a bomber jacket go further.
Check that it's leather at all. For covered goods such as bags, belts and shoes, the FTC Leather Guides say imitation material that looks like leather should be labeled with words like "Imitation leather" or "Vinyl". Jackets are not on the Guides' list, so a jacket tag may not use these words. See faux leather vs real leather for the trade-offs.
If you'd like to choose the hide, finish and lining yourself, Leather Collection custom leather jackets are cut to your size and stitched by hand.
FAQ
What material is used in making winter jackets?
Mostly an insulation layer under a protective shell. Down is the warmest for its weight but fails when wet; wool and shearling are the natural alternatives.
What fabrics should you stay away from?
It depends on the weather. Avoid down where it will get wet, regular fleece as an outer layer in wind, and waxed cotton, which breathes poorly, when you'll be sweating.
What type of fabric is used for jackets?
The common ones are leather, suede, wool, cotton and denim, nylon, polyester and fleece, often with down or synthetic insulation and a lining. The table above compares them.
LeatherGuide Editorial Team
LeatherGuide articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.