How to Take Care of Patent Leather: Basics for the Glossy Coat

Patent leather is leather with a glossy coating on top, so you care for the coating more than the hide. Wipe it with a damp cloth, use a little mild soap only if needed, dry and buff it, and store it away from dyed fabrics, which can stain it. Harsher cleaners are where the sources disagree, so test anything stronger on a hidden spot first.

This page is part of our leather care and weather guide. Caught in a downpour? See is rain bad for leather.

What you are caring for: the coating

The first patent leathers used a linseed-oil lacquer. Seth Boyden of Newark, New Jersey, began making it commercially in 1819. Modern patent leather typically has a plastic or synthetic coating. One shoemaker describes it as a resin, usually a polyurethane and acrylic mix.

That coating explains the care rules:

• It is virtually waterproof, so surface dirt wipes off.
• It is prone to color transfer. Light-colored patent leather is prone to color migration from dyed items next to it.
• It dulls with wear. Over time the gloss fades, though the surface stays smoother than most leathers.

How patent compares with uncoated leather, including cracking, is covered in patent vs regular leather.

What you need

• Two soft cloths, cotton flannel or microfiber
• A soft-bristled brush (optional)
• Water and a mild soap or mild dishwashing detergent
• A cleaner made for patent leather, for scuffs
• A white dust bag for storage

A basic care routine, step by step

1. Remove loose dirt. Brush or wipe off dust with a soft brush or cloth.
2. Wipe with a damp cloth. A damp cloth handles dust and fingerprints. For grime, add a little mild soap.
3. Don't soak it. Wring the cloth out well and work in small circles. Excess water can damage shoes.
4. Dry and buff. Dry with a soft, dry cloth.
5. Treat scuffs last, gently. Use a cleaner made for patent leather. If you try anything stronger, test it on a hidden spot first.
6. Store it in a white dust bag, away from dark or dyed items.

This one-minute demonstration from shoemaker Allen Edmonds shows the wipe-and-buff routine on patent shoes. It differs from this page in one way: for stubborn residue it uses the brand's own leather lotion, whereas the general reference we used points to cleaners made for patent leather.

Alcohol and vinegar: the sources disagree

We don't settle this. Start with water and mild soap. If you still want to try alcohol, test it on a hidden spot first, as The Leather Laundry and Leather Collection's care page both advise.

Common mistakes

• Storing it touching jeans or dark fabric. Dye can migrate into the coating.
• Over-wetting. Too much water can damage shoes. Uncoated finishes are far more sensitive to water; compare caring for aniline leather.
• Attacking old stains yourself. Stubborn stains are a job for a professional. Peeling or cracked coating is a restoration job; see mumiay.com.

For more detailed DIY routines, hosob.com has a patent leather care guide. For formal shoes, see leather vs patent leather shoes.

Shop leather for everyday wear

If you'd rather have leather that doesn't show every fingerprint, Leather Collection offers coats in cowhide, sheepskin and goatskin.

FAQ

Is patent leather real leather?

It is leather with a high-gloss coating. Under the FTC's leather guides, look-alikes made from vinyl or plastic should be disclosed as not leather. The comparison page linked above covers the differences in full.

Is it okay to use dish soap on patent leather?

One shoemaker uses mild dishwashing detergent in water on a wrung-out cloth. Keep it mild and don't soak the leather.

Should you put leather conditioner on patent leather?

The sources don't agree. Allen Edmonds wipes its own leather lotion onto patent shoes for stubborn residue. The general reference we used recommends cleaners made for patent leather. For uncoated leather, see how to choose a leather conditioner.