Vegetable-Tanned Leather Is Real Leather: What "Veg Tan" Means When You Buy

Yes, vegetable-tanned leather is real leather. It is animal hide tanned with tannins from tree bark and leaves instead of chromium salts. "Vegetable" names the tanning agent, not the material, so veg-tan leather is not vegan.

This answer is part of our guide to leather identification.

Veg tan, chrome tan and vegan leather: what each word means

Three similar-sounding labels describe very different things.

In the EU footwear rules, leather means hide or skin with its fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned so it won't rot. Both tanning methods produce leather by that definition. A vegan or faux material does not, and in the US, look-alikes should be labeled as imitation or not leather.

How vegetable tanning works

In [vegetable tanning](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanning_(leather)), tannins from bark and leaves bind to the collagen in the hide. That makes it less water-soluble and more resistant to bacteria. Hides soak for several weeks in vats of rising tannin strength. Chrome tanning is the faster method.

For how veg tan is graded and finished, see our guide to full-grain vegetable-tanned leather.

Veg tan vs chrome tan: what changes for you

The tannage affects where you will meet it. Vegetable-tanned leather is used for leather crafting and small goods such as wallets and handbags, plus belts, luggage and other accessories. Chrome-tanned leather goes mainly into shoes, car seats and upholstery. Vegetable-tanned hide is described as not very flexible.

Leather maker Tanner Leatherstein compares the two methods from his tannery experience. He also explains combination tanning, where chrome-tanned leather is retanned with vegetable tannins. He calls veg tan the premium option; that is his view, and his 90% chrome figure is close to the 85-90% cited above.

How to check a "vegetable-tanned" claim

You can't confirm the tannage from the surface alone, so lean on the seller.

1. Find it in writing. Look for "vegetable-tanned" or "veg tan" in the material line, not just in the product story.
2. Ask about combination tanning. One maker says much chrome-tanned leather is retanned with plant tannins. Ask whether the leather is fully vegetable-tanned.
3. Look at an undyed edge. Raw chrome-tanned skins are greyish-blue, which is why the trade calls them "wet blue". A grey-blue core can hint at chrome tanning, but dyed leather may not show it [UNVERIFIED: our inference — a tanner should confirm].
4. Treat feel and smell as hints. One maker says chrome-tanned leather often looks more synthetic and smells less organic. That is one view, not a test.

One maker also describes boiling a sample to see if it curls. It destroys the sample, so it isn't a buyer's test. For checks that settle whether an item is leather at all, use our simple tests for identifying real leather.

Questions shoppers ask

Is vegetable-tanned leather vegan?

No. It is made from animal hide; only the tanning agents come from plants. For animal-welfare and environmental questions, see leather ethics.

What are the downsides of vegan leather?

That depends on the material. Some polyurethane coatings break down with moisture over time. Our guide to whether faux leather is durable covers it in full.

What are the four types of leather?

There is no single agreed list. Common label terms include full-grain and top-grain, which describe the layer, and "genuine", which is not a grade. Our practical guide to leather types and grades sorts them out.

Where to buy leather with the hide named

Leather Collection doesn't list items described as vegetable-tanned; a store search for "vegetable" or "veg tan" returns nothing. If what you need is a real-leather bag with the hide stated, every Leather Collection custom leather bag is made of real sheep or goat leather. Ask about the tannage before you order.