Leather Comparisons

Vinyl vs Leather Sleeves on a Letterman Jacket: Which to Order

Leather sleeves are the traditional choice; vinyl is PVC on fabric with less upkeep and more weather resistance. Compare durability, care and cost.

Leather sleeves are the traditional choice: real hide, the look letter jackets have had since the 1930s. Vinyl sleeves are a plastic (PVC) coating on fabric that looks like leather, needs little upkeep and shrugs off rain.

School ordering programs can offer both. One school's Jostens letter jacket lists sleeves "in vinyl or leather", and its standard package comes with vinyl.

Our verdict: pick leather if the jacket is a keepsake you will wear for years and are willing to look after. Pick vinyl for a low-fuss jacket that will see bad weather, or when the school package defaults to it.

Part of our leather comparison chart.

Vinyl vs leather sleeves at a glance

Vinyl vs leather sleeves at a glance
Column 1Vinyl sleevesLeather sleevesFact
What it isSoft PVC layer over a fabric baseTanned animal hide–
TraditionLater alternativeStandard look since the 1930s–
RainPVC fabric is water-resistantIf it gets wet, dry it slowly at room temperature, away from heaters–
UpkeepLittle maintenance neededWipe clean and condition every few months–
How it agesSurface can rub and wear off over timeFull-grain leather develops a patina–
CleaningPVC is not easily cleanedWipe with a soft dry cloth–
Offered by school programsYes, often in the base packageYes, as an option–

Why letterman jackets have leather sleeves

The letter jacket grew out of the letter sweater first worn by the Harvard baseball team in 1865. By the 1930s it had its classic form: a wool body with leather sleeves in a different color and chenille lettering.

That pairing is still the reference. The body is usually boiled wool in the school's main color, and the sleeves are leather in the second color, with knit cuffs, collar and waistband. Some schools still write leather into their spec. One high school's jacket calls for a 100% virgin wool body with white leather sleeves and leather-trimmed pockets.

What vinyl sleeves are

"Vinyl" means PVC. Vinyl leatherette is made by coating a fabric base with a soft PVC layer. To stay flexible, PVC needs a plasticizer, usually a phthalate, and those plasticizers are not chemically bound to the plastic, so they can leach out.

Vinyl is not "fake" in a bad sense for a jacket. PVC fabric is used for its weather resistance in coats and jackets, and the shoulders of donkey jackets are traditionally PVC.

Durability: which lasts longer?

Sources point in different directions, and none tested letter jacket sleeves directly:

  • Vinyl needs little maintenance and does not crack or fade easily, but the surface of some artificial leathers can rub and wear off with time.
  • Leather is a strong, flexible and durable material. Full-grain leather develops a patina rather than wearing out.

Whether leather sleeves outlast vinyl also depends on the grade of hide and how the jacket is stored and cared for. Nobody publishes lifespan figures for letter jacket sleeves, so we do not give one.

Weather, care and cleaning

For a jacket worn to games in the rain, vinyl has the edge: PVC fabric is chosen for coats precisely because it resists water. Leather sleeves need more care. If they get wet, dry them slowly at room temperature, away from heaters. For a smooth leather jacket, Leather Collection advises wiping it with a soft dry cloth and conditioning it every few months.

Whichever sleeves you choose, the jacket still has a boiled wool body and knit trim, so the sleeves are only part of the care. Our sister site mumiay explains restoring a letterman jacket's leather sleeves and trim if an old jacket needs work.

Look and feel

Leather sleeves are the traditional look, usually in the school's second color. Vinyl leatherette is made to imitate leather, with the texture molded into its plastic surface.

Cost

We found no published price difference between vinyl and leather sleeves from a jacket maker we could verify. In one school's program, vinyl comes in the standard package and leather is the alternative. Ask your school's supplier to quote both versions of the same jacket before you decide.

Which should you choose?

If you are weighing synthetic against real leather more broadly, see faux leather vs real leather and is faux leather durable?

Which should you choose?
If you...PickFact
Want the traditional look for a keepsake jacketLeather–
Will wear it in rain and snow at gamesVinyl–
Want the least upkeepVinyl–
Are willing to wipe and condition the sleevesLeather–
Are ordering through a school package with a defaultCheck what the base includes; often vinyl–

Want an all-leather jacket instead?

Leather Collection does not make letterman jackets; a store search for "letterman" or "varsity" returns nothing. If you would rather have a jacket that is leather throughout and cut to your measurements, see Leather Collection custom leather jackets.

FAQ

Why do letterman jackets have leather sleeves?

By the 1930s the classic letter jacket was a wool body with leather sleeves in a contrasting color, and that look stuck.

What is the best material for a letterman jacket?

The traditional build is a boiled wool body with leather sleeves; many programs also offer vinyl sleeves.

What are the differences between vinyl sleeves and leather sleeves?

Vinyl is a PVC coating on fabric that resists water and needs little upkeep. Leather is real hide that needs wiping and occasional conditioning.

What goes on the right sleeve of a letterman jacket?

It depends on the school. The graduation year often goes on the right sleeve or above the right pocket. One school puts the year on the left sleeve and honor patches on the right.

LeatherGuide Editorial Team

LeatherGuide articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.