The Smell of Leather: What It Tells You When You Buy

Leather smells of how it was made. Researchers traced the smell mainly to the softening oils, retanning agents and preservatives used on the hide. That makes smell a useful clue when you shop, but not proof that an item is real leather.

This guide is part of our hub on leather properties and uses.

What real leather smells like, and why it varies

The smell of leather is a blend, not one note. A study by the FILK leather institute and a German food-chemistry center found more than 70 compounds that may play a part. Almost every leather had nearly the same ones, in different proportions. That is why leathers made in different ways smell related but not the same.

Tanning is one reason for the difference. A leather-goods maker says vegetable tanning agents can smell different from chemical ones. The study looked only at unfinished leather, so dyes and surface finishes on the item in your hand can change things again.

Does the smell prove it's real leather?

No. Many buyers treat the smell as proof, because most other materials are expected to smell of nothing. But finish, dye and coatings change both smell and feel, so Leather Collection's guide to spotting real leather treats them only as supporting impressions.

Synthetic leathers have smells of their own. A Czech study of synthetic upholstery leathers found they mainly gave off toluene, 1,2-propanediol and limonene. One sample got the worst smell rating of all the materials tested. A leather-goods maker links a fishy smell in artificial leather to phthalate plasticizers. PVC needs a plasticizer of that kind to stay flexible.

So a plastic or fishy smell is a reason to check further. A leathery smell alone doesn't settle it. Use the label and a cut edge instead: see how to tell real leather from fake and faux leather vs real leather.

What a strong new-leather smell tells you

A strong smell on a new item usually comes from its processing. One specialist cleaner says the smell of brand-new leather typically comes from tanning, and that some people avoid leather garments because of it.

It should fade. A leather-goods maker says new-leather odor typically fades after a few weeks of regular use and correct storage. Hanging the item in a dry, airy place out of direct sun speeds that up. New cars follow a similar pattern. A 1995 analysis of one new car found over 50 airborne compounds, some from leather and vinyl treatments, and a significant drop two months later.

If it is still too strong for you, see how to remove smells from leather.

Smell check before you buy

Picked-up smells such as smoke and perfume have their own guide: does leather absorb smells?.

The surest check is the material line. Leather Collection men's leather jackets name the hide on every product page.

FAQ

Does the smell of leather go away?

The strong new smell usually fades over a few weeks of use and airing, according to one maker. The softer leathery smell comes from how the leather was made.

Does real leather smell like fish?

One leather-goods maker links a fishy smell to the phthalate plasticizers used in artificial leather. If you notice it, read the material line.

Why does my belt smell bad?

Leather picks up sweat, smoke and damp from use. A musty smell can mean mold. Leather takes up moisture readily, which is also part of why it is breathable.