How to Care for Leather: The Basics, Matched to Your Leather's Finish

Good leather care is mostly about keeping leather clean, dry, cool and covered with something that breathes. Dust it with a soft dry cloth, blot spills, let wet leather dry at room temperature and test any product on a hidden spot first. How much more you can safely do depends on the finish. Pigmented leather is the toughest, while aniline is the least protected.

This page covers the basics for jackets, coats, bags and shoes. For what each kind of weather does to leather, see our guide to leather care in every kind of weather.

Leather care at a glance

Start with the finish: it decides the care

Leather is not one material when it comes to care. The finish on top decides how much water, rubbing and product it can take, and a product that suits one type can be disastrous on another. Your care label may help here; see how to read a leather care label.

Water makes the difference easy to see. On aniline leather, water soaks in and darkens the surface. A pigmented coat is there to resist that kind of damage.

In this video, DudsByDel compares two horsehide jackets, one with a pigment finish and one aniline, and shows up close how they differ in look, feel and toughness. The direct comparison starts at about 4:20, where the two sleeves sit side by side.

For the delicate finishes, see caring for aniline leather and patent leather care.

The everyday habits that matter most

Some of the simplest care is in how you wear leather. Leather Collection's care instructions list a few habits that are easy to fix:

• Empty heavy pockets. Heavy objects such as key chains stretch the leather.
• Spray first, then put on your leather. Avoid applying hair spray and perfume while wearing it.
• Skip pins and tape. Don't attach pins, adhesive badges or tape.
• Let wrinkles hang out. Creases in a leather garment should drop out on a hanger.
• Keep it out of long sun and heat. Light damage builds up over time and cannot be reversed.

Cleaning: what to do at home and what to leave to a pro

At home, keep it simple. Dust, blot and use a damp cloth. On aniline leather, stop before a stain is fully gone if you need to. Rubbing too hard or wetting too much can do more harm, and not every stain comes out.

For anything more, go to a specialist. The store sends serious stains to a professional leather cleaner. It also warns that normal dry cleaning removes essential oils, so the leather can crack, fade and shrink. A leather specialist uses a different method. Even that can change color, texture and shape slightly, so have matching pieces cleaned together.

If your label says "Leather clean," that means cleaning only by a professional who uses special leather or suede methods.

For a numbered routine, step by step, see how to care for leather on hosob.com.

Protecting and conditioning: where sources agree and disagree

The sources agree on two points. A water and stain repellent helps prevent water stains and soiling, and any product should be tried on a hidden area first.

They also agree on several things to avoid. The store lists cleaning fluid, shoe cream, saddle soap and mink oil. A conservation note adds that saddle soap is very alkaline and can leave a white deposit.

Whether leather needs conditioning is where they split:

The conservation sources write about museum objects, not leather that people wear. So treat this as an open question, not a rule. If you do use a conditioner, match it to the finish. Even the maker above sells separate conditioners for different finishes, including one for semi-aniline and naked leather. One upholstery finisher disagrees for aniline and says to use no conditioner on it at all.

More on this: how to choose a leather conditioner and how often to condition leather.

Weather and storage, in brief

Damp is a storage risk. Above 65% relative humidity, leather invites mould and fiber breakdown. Below 30%, it dries out and turns brittle. Mould can appear after 10 days at 80% humidity, so never put leather away damp.

• Store it in a cool, dry, ventilated place, not a hot attic or a damp cellar.
• Cover it with breathable cloth, such as a cotton sheet. Plastic causes excessive drying.
• Hang coats and jackets on a wide wooden, plastic or padded hanger.

If it gets soaked, read what water does to leather before you try to fix it. For coats in particular, see caring for a leather coat.

How much care your leather needs, by owner

For restoration, see leather cracking: causes, prevention and repair on mumiay.com.

Choosing leather you can look after

The hide and finish you buy decide how much care you take on. Leather Collection offers men's coats in cowhide, sheepskin and goatskin, in trench, duster, car coat and blazer cuts, with a Custom Size option. Ask which finish a piece has before you buy, and keep the store's care instructions for later.

FAQ

Should I wash leather?

Don't wash it like fabric. Clean small marks at home with a damp cloth. Send serious stains to a professional leather cleaner, because normal dry cleaning can make leather crack, fade and shrink.

Is olive oil good for leather?

Our sources don't support it. Oils and fats in dressings can turn acidic, stiffen, stain and leave a sticky surface. See household oils for other kitchen substitutes.

Is Dawn dish soap OK for leather?

None of our sources tested dish soap. One upholstery finisher allows a mild soap on a damp cloth, not on the leather, for aniline leather with an added finish. Whatever you use, try it on a hidden area first.