Roughout vs Suede: Which Napped Leather Should You Buy?

Roughout is a full hide turned so the fuzzy flesh side faces out and the grain faces in. Suede is that fibrous layer buffed or split away from the grain. Choose roughout for hard-wearing boots that hide scuffs. Choose suede for a neater, shorter nap on shoes, jackets and gloves.

Part of our suede, nubuck and roughout guide.

Roughout vs suede at a glance

Is rough-out a kind of suede? Makers use the words differently

Shoppers get confused because the trade does not agree on the label.

• Roughout is not suede. Footwear magazine Stitchdown and bootmaker Nicks say roughout is the whole hide flipped, while suede is corium altered by buffing or splitting.
• Rough-out is a suede. Shoemaker Crockett & Jones calls its rough-out "an unusual suede" with a dense, waxed surface. It cuts it from thicker, firmer hides of animals 18 months to two years old, against 3-6 months for its calf.
• Full-grain suede sits in between. It keeps the grain intact and buffs the corium to an even nap. A leather repair shop disagrees that such a thing is common, saying all suedes other than nubuck are splits.

So don't stop at the name. Ask the seller three things: is the hide split, how thick is it, and is it waxed? Our types of suede page sorts the suede family in more detail.

Which is tougher?

Thickness is the main difference. Nicks says roughout is, in many cases, the same leather as grain-out leather, just turned around. Suede that lacks the grain is softer and less durable than full-grain leather.

The gap narrows with full-grain suede, which Stitchdown credits with better tensile strength and water resistance than split suede. Stitchdown also says roughout is chosen for its looks rather than extra strength: it does not show wear the way smooth leather does. Crockett & Jones says its rough-out boots soften with wear without losing their integrity.

Water and weather

Views differ for both leathers. Saphir and bootmaker Chisos credit roughout with good water resistance. Stitchdown says roughout is not more water resistant than the grain side. For suede, a hide supplier says it is not waterproof unless treated, while Stitchdown says most suede resists water better than people think.

Wax is the common way around the question. Tanneries often finish either leather with wax or an invisible waterproofing, and you can add a spray or wax yourself. Crockett & Jones's waxed rough-out is sold for its water resistance. The full debate on roughout is in what rough leather is and how it is made; suede in rain has its own page.

Care compared

Both take the same basic routine: a stiff bristle brush lifts dirt and evens the nap. The differences:

• Roughout can go a very long time before it needs conditioning. If you clean it with water, let it dry naturally overnight, never by a radiator.
• Suede is hurt most by oily and greasy spills. A suede spray helps if you wipe spills quickly, and suede shampoo will not lift truly oily spots.

For a jacket routine, see suede jacket care basics. For step-by-step cleaning of boots, hosob has a guide on how to clean roughout leather.

Which should you buy?

Where to find each

Leather Collection does not sell roughout. It does sell suede jackets and gloves. The Leather Collection Cambridge suede jacket lists goatskin suede at 0.8-0.9 mm (about 0.03 in). Its notes describe suede as the inner side of the hide brushed to a soft nap, not as tough as smooth leather, and dry-clean only by a suede specialist.

Not sure suede counts as leather at all? See is suede a type of leather?

Related guides

• For the sanded-grain alternative, read is nubuck leather durable.

FAQ

Is roughout leather real leather?

Yes. It is a full hide with the flesh side facing out.

Can roughout leather get wet?

It can, but sources disagree on how well it copes untreated. If it gets wet, dry it naturally overnight away from radiators.

Are you supposed to oil roughout leather?

Rarely. Stitchdown says roughout can go a very long time before it needs conditioning. Some rough-outs are waxed and others oilier from the tannery, so follow the maker's care notes.

Are roughout boots durable?

Sources lean that way: roughout hides wear well, and Crockett & Jones says its rough-out boots soften without losing integrity. We have not yet tested this ourselves; see the scuff test slot above.