Suede, Nubuck and Roughout: A Shopper's Guide to Napped Leather

Suede, nubuck and roughout are all real leather with a soft, napped surface. The difference is which side of the hide was brushed. Nubuck is the outer grain side, sanded to a short nap. Suede is the underside of the skin or of a split. Roughout is leather turned so the flesh side faces out.

That one choice decides how tough the piece is, how it handles water and how you care for it. This hub sorts the three and links to a page for each shopper question.

Suede, nubuck and roughout at a glance

Which side of the hide? Nubuck vs suede

Nubuck keeps the grain, the tough outer layer, and only sands it. Suede has no grain at all, which makes it softer but less durable. One glove maker puts it simply: brushed grain is nubuck, while suede comes from split leather.

Our nubuck vs suede comparison covers how to tell them apart in a shop and which to buy for what.

Is suede real leather?

Yes. Under the EU footwear labeling directive, split hides still count as leather as long as the fiber structure is intact. Faux suedes such as Ultrasuede are synthetic microfiber fabrics.

• Is suede a type of leather? explains labels and how to check a listing.
• Real suede vs faux suede compares the two side by side.
• Types of suede and their characteristics sorts suede by animal and layer.

Durability: which lasts?

Nubuck's hide is stronger than suede's. Its surface is still delicate, though: it scratches easily and absorbs liquids fast. Read is nubuck leather durable? before you buy nubuck for daily use.

Water and weather

Neither suede nor nubuck is waterproof unless it has been treated. Rain can darken the nap while it is wet. It should dry back to its original color.

Makers do not agree on how much rain suede can take. A shoemaker says its fat-liquored suede beads water. Leather Collection's suede jacket pages say to keep their suede out of heavy rain. See can you wear a suede jacket in the rain?.

Roughout vs suede

Roughout shows the flesh side, much like suede, but its nap is longer and less even. Our roughout leather vs suede page sets out where sources disagree about its toughness.

Caring for napped leather

Napped leather is brushed, not wiped and conditioned like smooth leather. Regular leather cream can darken a nubuck surface.

• How to care for a suede jacket is our routine for owners.
• For step-by-step stain removal and cleaning, see hosob's suede care guides.

Shopping suede and nubuck

Leather Collection has no suede category page, so search the store for "suede" or "nubuck". Two examples that state their leather clearly: the Leather Collection Beige Suede Jacket for Men, in 0.9-1.0 mm (about 0.04 in) goatskin suede, and the Brown Nubuck Cafe Racer, in 0.9-1.0 mm nubuck cowhide with a water-resistant coating.

FAQ

Is split leather real leather?

Yes. Split leather is the lower layer left after the grain is taken off, and EU rules still class split hides as leather.

Is suede low quality leather?

Not by definition. Suede lacks the grain, so it is less durable than full-grain leather. Some makers use full-grain, unsplit calf with the nap worn outside, a higher-end suede.

What happens if suede gets wet?

It absorbs liquids quickly, and water, salt and oils can stain it. Let it dry naturally, away from direct heat.