Suede & Nubuck

Nubuck vs Suede: How They Differ and Which One to Buy

Nubuck is sanded grain leather; suede is the napped underside. Compare strength, feel, water, price and labels, then see which fits what you are buying.

Nubuck vs Suede: How They Differ and Which One to Buy

Nubuck and suede are not the same leather. Nubuck is the outer grain side sanded to a fine nap, while suede is the underside of the skin or of a split, brushed until fuzzy. For a piece you will wear hard, nubuck is the safer buy because it is stronger and thicker; for the softest feel and a lower price, choose suede.

Both are real leather, and neither is waterproof unless treated. This page is part of our suede, nubuck and roughout guide.

Nubuck vs suede: the buyer's table

Nubuck vs suede: the buyer's table
What you care aboutNubuckSuede
Side of the hideGrain side, sanded or buffedUnderside of the skin, or the lower split
FeelFiner, more structuredSofter, fluffier, velvety
StrengthStronger and thicker than suedeLess durable than full-grain leather
Surface wearScratches easily; marks showStains easily; not ideal for high-contact items
WaterSlightly more resistant, not waterproofAbsorbs liquids quickly
PriceGenerally the more expensiveGenerally the cheaper
Common hidesCowhide on jackets and blazersMainly lamb; goat, calf and deer are common
Brown nubuck blazer sleeve beside a navy suede blazer sleeve with a fingertip mark across each nap

Why the side of the hide matters

The grain is the tough outer layer of the skin. Nubuck keeps it and only sands the surface. That is why most sources rate nubuck as the stronger leather.

Suede loses the grain, so it is softer, thinner and more pliable, which suits clothing. Thin lamb skins are sueded on their underside. Thick cow and deer hides are split first, and that split is sueded, which can leave a shaggier nap.

How to tell them apart when shopping

  1. Read the material line. A good listing names both the hide and the finish, for example "cowhide, nubuck finish" or "goatskin suede".
  2. Feel the nap. Nubuck feels finer and tighter. Suede feels softer and fluffier.
  3. Look at the price. Nubuck usually costs more, because it needs a better raw hide and more processing.
  4. Check the label for synthetics. Microfiber look-alikes such as Ultrasuede are fabric, not leather. The FTC Leather Guides say non-leather that looks like leather should be disclosed as not leather.
Two product labels reading nubuck cowhide and goatskin suede

Which should you buy?

Want to see how a third napped leather compares? Read roughout leather vs suede.

Which should you buy?
If you are buying...PickWhy
A jacket you will wear several days a weekNubuckStronger hide
A soft, light jacket or blazer for dry daysSuedeSoftness and drape
GlovesSuede or lambskin with suedeSoft, thin skins; many store gloves use suede
Something for damp climatesNubuck with a water-resistant coatingNeither is waterproof untreated; nubuck resists slightly better
The lowest priceSuedeGenerally the cheaper of the two

Care differs less than you think

Both are brushed, not wiped and conditioned like smooth leather. Regular leather cream can darken nubuck. Rain may darken the nap while wet; it should dry back to its original color.

For the full nubuck routine, see hosob's how to care for nubuck leather. Wondering about wet weather? See can you wear a suede jacket in the rain?.

See both finishes on the same style

Leather Collection makes a blazer in each finish. The Leather Collection Men Brown Nubuck Leather Blazer is 0.9-1.0 mm (about 0.04 in) cowhide with a lightly buffed nubuck finish. The Navy Suede Blazer is 0.8-0.9 mm goatskin suede. Comparing the two listings shows the hide and thickness difference in practice.

Related guides

FAQ

Are suede and nubuck the same?

No. Nubuck is sanded grain leather; suede is napped from the underside or a split. A glove maker warns not to confuse the two for exactly that reason.

What is more expensive, nubuck or suede?

Nubuck, generally. One hide supplier ties that to the better raw hide and extra processing it needs.

Is split leather real leather?

Yes. Split leather is the lower layer left after the grain is removed, and split hides still count as leather under EU rules. See is suede a type of leather?

What are the disadvantages of nubuck leather?

It scratches easily, and water drops darken it for a while. It also absorbs liquids fast and can fade in sun. More in is nubuck leather durable?

LeatherGuide Editorial Team

LeatherGuide articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.