Types of Leather: Animals, Layers and Finishes, Sorted for Shoppers

Every type of leather can be described in three ways: the animal it came from, the layer of the hide that was used, and the finish applied on top. Cattle hides make up about 65% of leather produced. The layer decides the grade, from full-grain down to split. The finish decides how the surface looks and how it reacts to water and stains.

This hub sorts the leather types you meet when shopping into those three questions. Each section links to a page that answers it in depth.

The three questions behind every leather label

A label rarely answers all three. "Genuine leather", for example, does not describe a specific grade. When a listing leaves a question open, ask the seller.

Leather by animal

Most leather comes from cattle. Sheep supply about 13%, goats about 11% and pigs about 10%, though world figures are hard to pin down. Lamb and deer give soft leather used in more expensive apparel.

• Sheepskin: soft and light. See is sheepskin leather a good choice.
• Buffalo: sellers describe buffalo leather as thicker and more textured than cowhide. The name can mean water buffalo or American bison. See buffalo hides: characteristics and uses.
• Bull hides: covered in bull hides: characteristics and common uses.
• Hair-on hides: pelts cured with the hair left on, as with a buffalo robe. See black hair-on-hide leather.

Leather by layer: the grades

Top-grain leather keeps the outer grain layer, whose dense fibers give strength. Full-grain keeps the whole grain with nothing removed. It develops a patina and is usually considered the highest quality. Corrected grain is sanded to remove flaws, then dyed and embossed. Split leather comes from the lower layer left after the grain is separated off. Bonded leather is shredded scraps glued onto a backing.

• Leather grain types explained
• Is top-grain leather the best choice?
• Full-grain vegetable-tanned leather explained
• What cross-grain leather is
• A practical guide to leather types and grades, with a fuller grade ladder
• The main types of leather explained

For how grade labels are used and misused, see our split vs genuine leather comparison.

Leather by finish

Finishing is an extra step after tanning. It can include oiling, buffing, coating, embossing, glazing or tumbling, and not every leather gets it. Aniline leather is colored only with soluble dye, so the natural surface shows through. Pigmented leather carries a colored coating and a clear topcoat.

• Types of leather finishes explained: aniline, semi-aniline, pigmented, pull-up and more
• Types of polished leather explained
• The natural colors of leather
• Is nappa leather good quality? and is nappa leather durable?
• What is English bridle leather?

Leather by texture

Texture is what your hand feels. It can come from the grain, from embossing or from a napped surface. Pebbled patterns, for example, are usually pressed in by embossing. Roughout turns the flesh side outward.

• Common leather textures and how they differ
• What rough leather is and how it is made

For suede and nubuck in depth, see our suede, nubuck and roughout hub.

Choosing leather for what you buy

The best leather depends on the item. Firm cowhide suits biker and cafe racer jackets, while sheepskin and lambskin drape more, suiting shirt and bomber styles.

• The best types of leather for different uses
• Types of leather used for jackets

Look-alikes: faux and bonded

Faux leather goes by many names, including leatherette, PU leather and vegan leather. The FTC Leather Guides say non-leather that looks like leather should be disclosed as not leather. See common types of fake leather and our leather identification hub.

Shopping leather that names the hide

Leather Collection men's leather jackets are made to order in cowhide, sheepskin, lambskin or goatskin. The leather is named on every product page. The store names the hide and finish, not a grain grade, so ask if the layer matters to you.

FAQ

What are the four main types of leather?

The usual list of four is full-grain, top-grain, genuine and bonded. "Genuine" is a label rather than a grade, though. Split leather and corrected grain are the other common terms.

What is the lowest quality leather?

Bonded leather sits at the bottom. It is shredded scraps bonded with polyurethane or latex, with leather fiber anywhere from 10% to 90%. US guides say bonded material should not be sold simply as leather.

What are the different textures of leather?

The main textures are smooth grain, natural or embossed grain such as pebble, napped surfaces such as nubuck and suede, and hair-on. The texture guide linked above covers each one.