Types of Leather Finishes Explained: What Each One Means When You Buy

A leather finish is the treatment on the surface after tanning. It can be dye, oil, wax, pigment, sanding, embossing or a glossy coating. The main types are aniline, semi-aniline, pigmented, pull-up, nubuck, suede, embossed and patent. Broadly, the less coating a finish has, the more natural it looks and the more easily it stains.

This guide is part of our hub on leather types, grades and finishes. Finish is not the same as grade, which is about the layer of hide. For that, see leather grain types explained.

Leather finishes at a glance

The stain and fade column comes mostly from a leather care company, Rub n Restore. It reflects the trade view, not lab tests.

Aniline: dye only

Aniline leather is dyed only with soluble dyes. The dye colors the hide without forming a paint-like layer, so any marks in the original surface stay visible. Wikipedia notes that only high-quality leather suits this finish, and full-grain leather is typically finished this way.

The trade-off is protection. Water soaks into aniline and darkens it, and it sun-fades and stains easily. Choose it if you like a surface that changes with use.

Semi-aniline: a light shield

Semi-aniline adds a thin top coat to protect against wear and staining. The definitions differ, though, as Leather International points out. The ICT glossary says it has only enough pigment to keep the hide's natural character visible. BS 2780 sets no limit on the amount of pigment. So "semi-aniline" on one label can mean more coating than on another.

Pigmented or "finished" leather

Pigmented leather is full- or top-grain leather coated with one or more pigment layers and sealed with a clear topcoat. Rub n Restore says it repels liquids, resists stains and scuffs, and is the most common type in furniture and car interiors. Heavy coatings also cut how much water vapour leather lets through. For what that means for comfort, see is leather breathable.

Pull-up, oiled and waxed leather

Pull-up leather gets extra oil or wax for a distressed look. When you bend or scratch it, the oils shift and the color lightens for a while until rubbed back. That color shift is normal for pull-up, not a defect. Leather can also be oiled to improve water resistance.

Napped finishes: nubuck and suede

Nubuck is top-grain leather sanded on the grain side to a short, velvety nap. It keeps more strength and thickness than suede and generally costs more. Suede is napped from the underside or a split, which makes it softer but less durable than full-grain. Both drink up liquids.

We cover these in depth in our suede, nubuck and roughout hub. For napped leather turned grain-side in, see what rough leather is.

Embossed, corrected and printed finishes

Corrected-grain leather is sanded to remove flaws, then dyed and embossed for a uniform look. Pebble grain is usually pressed in by embossing, and the same pattern can be pressed onto faux leather. The FTC Leather Guides say leather embossed to look like another kind should name the real kind. See is pebbled leather real leather and common leather textures.

Patent and polished finishes

Patent leather has a high-gloss coating. It was once linseed-oil lacquer, and today it is usually a plastic coating. It is virtually waterproof, but light colors can pick up dye from items stored next to them. Glazing and polishing also appear on the list of finishing operations. See types of polished leather and patent leather vs regular leather.

Distressed and vintage finishes

Distressed finishes give new leather a worn-in look. Leather Collection, for example, sells a women's jacket in 0.9-1.0 mm cowhide with a distressed finish. Pull-up leathers are another route to the same look.

How to tell which finish you are looking at

1. Read the listing. A finish name is more useful than a grade word alone. Ask for close photos if none is given.
2. Look for pores. Visible pores and marks point to aniline or semi-aniline. A perfectly even surface may be pigmented or embossed.
3. Bend it. Color that lightens at the fold suggests pull-up.
4. Skip drop tests on things you don't own. Water and scratch tests can leave permanent marks on finished goods.

Which finish suits which buyer

• Low-fuss everyday use: pigmented, for its stain and scuff resistance.
• Natural look that ages: aniline or pull-up, if you accept marks and fading.
• Soft hand feel: nubuck or suede, kept away from rain.
• Formal shine: patent.

Choosing a finish on a made-to-order jacket

The Leather Collection custom leather jacket lets you pick the finish. Options include natural, suede, nubuck, aniline, semi-aniline, nappa, glazed, distressed, washed and two-tone. The store's care note: wipe smooth leather with a soft dry cloth, and brush suede and nubuck and keep them out of the rain.

FAQ

What is the lowest quality of leather called?

Bonded leather. It is made from shredded leather scraps bonded onto a backing, with 10% to 90% leather fiber. That is a grade question, not a finish. See split vs genuine leather.

What is milled leather?

None of the sources we checked define "milled" as a standard finish. Tumbling is listed among finishing operations. Ask the seller whether "milled" means tumbled, and what it does to the feel.

What are the different textures of leather?

Smooth, grained, pebbled or embossed, napped and hair-on. Our textures guide, linked above, compares them.

What is the most durable leather finish?

Of the finishes compared here, the care trade rates pigmented leather as the most resistant to stains, scuffs and fading. Aniline and nubuck are the least protected.